[W126 Coupe] wood trim removal steps

[Mark Addison]

Noted that there are no steps for trim removal in the archives, I did this
for a couple of list members but it maybe useful for the record.

 

This is not a major job if you maintain you sanity and are careful to
remember sequence - bloody Germans love set steps!

All is logical as you would expect from MB.

If one task is taking its toll on you start at another area and go back to
the problem later with a clear mind rather than throwing your toys out of
your cot..

As with any work that involves wiring - disconnect your battery to avoid
instrument and or fuse damage.

Break up the areas that can be handled individually.

A.   Door trim.

B.	Glove box trim. 
C.	Left/right side dash trim. 

D.  Center shift console.

E.	Fascia console. 
F.	Ash tray. 

 

I would suggest that you have separate parts buckets for all of these areas
and tag each fastener with its location in a way that you will remember
where they fit for the reinstallation procedure. Not nice to have bits left
over.

 

A.	Door trim (both doors are exactly the same). 

1.	The inside door opening lever sits in a recess. The recess is a thin
plastic shell that can be removed with a small screwdriver blade from a
small opening when you pull that latch open. Take care as this is a delicate
thin piece of plastic which will need little force. This can be pushed back
on when reinstalling with the edges pushed under the metal assembly with a
tiny screw driver later. 
2.	When that shell has popped out you will see a Phillips head screw
that secures the metal surround that has the seat button assembly - remove
this. 
3.	Before taking off that assembly remove the seat buttons by prying
them off gently with a small flat screw driver. The backrest button has a
small plastic retainer ring, care taken not to lose this ring. 
4.	With the buttons removed and the other larger screw for the armrest
undone (behind that switch surround) move to the other 2 large Phillips head
screws along the armrest (they are at odd angles and a large Phillips head
screw driver is the best fit). 
5.	Before removing the arm rest piece, it is easier to remove two
chrome door covers - both have small Phillips head screws. One is located
near the mirror on the hinge side (2 screws) and the other is at the base of
the window on the latch side (3 screws). There is also a "C" section
retaining clamp with 2 screws, remove this as well. 
6.	One the bottom edge of the door itself there is an entry courtesy
light. This can be prized off with a sharp blade screw driver and the
electrical wire unplugged. This is done as you need to take off the door
trim and that wire has to be unplugged. 
7.	At the base of the door there are 4 small screws securing the door
trim to the door itself, they are small so do not lose them. 
8.	The armrest will now come off easily - use a lift action as it is
hooked onto the door frame with plastic hooks. 
9.	The entire door trim must also be lifted as it is too hooked to the
door frame. Note how to relocate this when doing the reinstallation. 
10.	There is no need to breach the plastic seal on the frame but if it
is becoming unstuck take the opportunity to put some contact adhesive to
patch any breaches. 
11.	The door trim with trailing wire from that courtesy light can be
removed. Turn over the door trim and it is clear to see how the wood trim is
secured - 3 plastic metric nuts; take these off and there is the trim! 

Notes: label the screws and nuts as it maybe some time before you get to
them again. Note the plastic locating hooks as these must be rehooked
properly for the whole assemble to  go back together properly again. Benz
love to hide screws and fasteners from view for visual perfection but all
makes sense as you take it apart. The other door is the same.

 

B.	This is the easiest part of the project. Open the glove box and take
out all that crap that the family has stuck in there. 

1.	Remove the "nuts" on the hinge on the glove box door side and take
off the door. These "nuts" are unique and I made a tool to deal with them
from a flat metal open ended spanner that I ground the ends to form a double
screwdriver so that the nut could be undone. There are a few spacer washes
in that hinge assemble - remember how they came out. 
2.	The other end of that flat spanner I also ground to make a sharp
double sided lever to remove the plastic pop fasteners that hold the glove
box internal cavity piece. These pop fasteners are a two piece fastener with
the center button expanding the outer sleeve to secure the box. From memory
there are 4 of them. Be careful not to distort these plastic bits as they
have to go back in when reassembling. 
3.	There is an internal light there also it can be carefully levered
out like the door courtesy light and disconnected so that the box can be
removed. The reason for the removal of the box will be evident later. 
4.	The glove box door has screws on the side edge and the inner panel,
remove these and you will clearly see how the wood trim can be removed. 

Notes: Spacer washers - remember their location.

 

C.	Dash trim. This is the real exciting part when you get the feeling
that Benz assemblers have additional arm and wrist joints than the rest of
us. I needed a few none standard tools here: an extendable peeking mini
mirror, a magnetic pick up that screw I dropped thing and a flexible LED
peeking light so that you locate a few well hidden nuts. 

1.	Take a deep breath. 
2.	Do the right hand side trim first so to better understand the more
difficult left hand passenger side. 
3.	The top vent just pulls out, no need for a lot of force here but the
careful use of 2 flat screw drivers working from both sides evenly will give
a direct pull out. 
4.	Access to the bottom vent is by a small nut that will enable you to
push that vent in after the nut is removed. 
5.	The instrument cluster now must come out - if you have never done
this before it is "easy". Benz sell a removal instrument which I bought and
was disappointed to see was only 2 x 3mm wires with 4mm hooks on the end.
These are slid in about 40mm between the cluster plastic and the dash vinyl.
Then they are turned to hook the back of the plastic cluster and simply pull
that whole assembly out. It is a little scary as you may have to use a bit
of grunt to get the cluster assembly out as it is a snug push in fit.
Careful with these hooks as you do not want to damage or scratch the dash or
cluster. 
6.	Then the unplugging of all the instrument cluster wires - these
globe wires should be numbered and the more complex plugs are one way only
designs. There is a vacuum hose for the economy gage which just pulls off -
but should be taped up to keep dust out after disconnection. 
7.	All this removal only has the purpose of access to the trim securing
nuts. However, while you are there you may want to want to look at doing
some cluster resto work. 
8.	The ignition lock has to be removed as well, from memory it is a
22mm locking nut. 
9.	The light switch is next again with equal pressure to both sides
prize it off. 
10.	The headlight height adjustment is vacuum assisted with a single
globe this is also a push in fit and can be disconnected (remember to tape
that vacuum hose) through the cluster void and pushed out from behind. 
11.	We are almost there. 
12.	To secure the trim to the dash Benz has used the same plastic nuts
that you have seen in the door trims. From memory there are 3 of these on
that right side trim. 1 on the far right that is undone by using an open
ended spanner in through the bottom side vent - this nut secures the trim
from sliding right. The second nut is between the back of the ignition hole
and the cluster and the third nut is to the left of the cluster and the LED
and mirror will assist you in locating this little sucker. Check in case
there is another as mine had provision for one more but it was not there -
there was evidence that I was not the first man to look at this area of the
car. 
13.	After these plastic nuts are removed the whole trim piece slides to
the right and can be taken off. If you are like me and want more access then
take off the under cover in the foot well which clears the way to manipulate
the blower tubes to make more room around the vents. This will also give you
a second access from underneath it you have not 3 arms to utilize. Do not do
this if you do not need to as refitting these panels can be a drama. 
14.	The left hand side has the same corner nut and one other securing
the front side of the trim. This trim slides to the left for removal. This
is where you will appreciate the glove box removal as you can move the
blower tubes right out of the way and reconnect them during installation.
The piece to the right of the glove box has those same plastic nuts PLUS 2
very small screws that are black in color into black plastic just under the
brow of the center vent openings these secure the timber and after these and
2 plastic nuts are removed the trim is free. 

Notes: Understand that Benz leaves little room after squeezing in all the
bits behind the dash and panels - all things have assigned homes and must be
put back correctly or you will spend literally hours trying to fit the
covering under panels back. Blower hoses must be reconnected properly for
the vents to refitted.

 

D.	Shifter trim panel. This is where the whole thing started for me - I
found that looking at a few cracks on this panel annoying so took this out
and had it totally laminated and  when I put it back it made the other
timber look sad... http://mbenzmark.blogspot.com/ view my blog to explain
better. 

1.	No need to remove the gear knob as the trim easily lifts over. 
2.	Prize up the leading edge of the coin holder, and lift it up out of
the way as you need to slide that trim panel forward. Be firm as it is
another snug Benz fit. The panel has timber sliding retainers it will go
forward about 10mm and then easily lift up. All the control switches are
snap fit and can be disconnected by rear plugs. When free of these plugs
lift off the trim switches and all. The switches can be pressed from behind
to remove. No tools needed, only a screw driver for levering that coin
holder. 

Notes: Do not try to lever up that timber trim panel as it slides out
forward - and other effort in any other direction may damage the wooden
slide.

 

E.	The fascia timber plate. 

1.	If you have ever installed a new radio or CD player - you know what
to do already. 
2.	Remove ashtray drawer. Unplug ash tray internal light. 
3.	2 screws will allow you to remove the ashtray chassis. Be careful
here as these screws are into flimsy plastic which is part of the fascia. 
4.	The radio should just slide out, remove function plug, power supply
and Arial connections - if it is an original MB system throw it in the bin
and buy a good new one (personal preference). 
5.	Like the shifter panel the fascia slides as well - in this case up. 
6.	Like the shifter panel unplug the wires and the heater and switches
are press fit from behind. 

Notes: The fascia panel has some light plastic frame parts (around the ash
tray frame - great care no to break this bit is important).

 

F.	Ashtray trim - I could not get that sucker off so treated it where
it was. 

 

 

General: the trim is easily scratched so care when using tools around these
bits is good. The trim plastic nuts are not to be over tightened as the
thread is only glued into the trim.

The veneer is only paper thin with a heavy urethane coating that has
probably become foggy - check my blog regarding this.

 

 

 

 


  Mark Addison

 560SEC right hand drive.


 

 

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