[W126 Coupe] Camshaft replacement - No AC

[Andrew Sporner]

Thats what i tried to append.  It never had A/C and that is why I wondered
about the
value--but as far as I am concerned, I don't miss it with the sunroof open
and rear windows
also.

Here in southern Germany it never really gets so scorching hot where it has
been a
problem.  I guess it also could be that I am not so sensitive.  Where I come
from in
Northern Indiana (just under Lake Michigan) it can get extremely hot (dog
days) and
bitter cold and in my youth nobody had A/C just a 455 (4 windows down at 55
mph).

Andy



On 6/24/08, Mike R. <mramay at att.biz> wrote:

>

>  Andy,

> My '87 560SEL has the Nippondenso AC Compressor and they generally have a

> blown set of o-rings in the top-hat area, where the freon lines attach to

> the compressor. If you have that compressor, it might be a very inexpensive

> repair.

>

> I was quoted $1300 to fix my "leaky AC system" with a rebuilt compressor or

> $1700 with a new one. I put six new o-rings into the compressor top hat and

> freon line attachments and had the system recharged. A couple of dollars for

> the o-rings, my labor, and $150 to convert the system to R134 and recharge

> it. It's been working for four years now.

>

> Later,

> Mike Ramay

>

> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Sporner" <

> asporner at googlemail.com>

> To: "Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists" <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>

> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 5:47 AM

> Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Camshaft replacement

>

> > Hi Dawid,

> >

> > Its a 1982 500 SEC with 340,000 Kms.  Big things wrong with it:

> >

> >     - no A/C

> >     - Bad headliner.

> >     - Driver side seat has rips.

> >     - Doors are not really good on the bottoms.

> >     - small rust areas on top left of trunk.

> >     - Rust areas on wheel wells.

> >     - Clutch on motor fan is siezed (engaged all the time).

> >

> > Other than that -- no problems.  Starts on the first try every time

> > no matter what the weather.  So far I have done the following:

> >

> >    - Brakes systems fundamentally rennovated (new calipers front and

> rear,

> >      new lines throughout. front rotors and rear rotor-drums replaced.

> >    - Transmission completely overhauled (though the flairing remains!)

> >    - New Starter coil

> >    - Complete new set of locks

> >    - exhaust replaced.

> >    - chassis repair as it applies to rust.

> >    - new fuel line/pump/relay

> >    - Fuel distrubutor (in german  "Massenteiler") rebuilt.

> >

> > it has no real re-occuring problems (outside of the flairing) but because

> of

> > the camshaft problem it won't pass German emissions next time around

> > (the car has been updated with a Catalytic converter in 1998 -- It

> normally

> > would meet EURO-3 standards).

> >

> > Andy

> >

> > On 6/24/08, Dawid Loubser <dawidl at solms.co.za> wrote:

> >> Hi Andrew,

> >>

> >> What model / year / mileage is your car? (sorry if I missed this

> earlier)

> >> If it's a very tattered, pre-1985 380 or 500, I can see that it may or

> may

> >> not be

> >> worth it to you (depending on how sentimentally attached you are to your

> >> car) but,

> >> if you consider how infrequently this major work is needed to sustain an

> >> otherwise

> >> bulletproof, amazingly built car which will surely appreciate in value

> in

> >> coming

> >> years, I would gladly pay EUR 1500 to give my SEC's engine a new lease

> on

> >> life

> >> (for he next couple of decades...:-) if it needed it.

> >>

> >> If your car is cosmetically sound, I can't think of anybody here that

> would

> >> discourage you from putting the money and effort into maintaining your

> SEC.

> >>

> >> I am not a complete stranger to mechanicals, but when the time comes for

> my

> >> car, I will certainly best leave a camshaft replacement to an

> experienced

> >> mechanic -

> >> the potential cost of a mistake is simply too high! (and it's my daily

> >> driver).

> >>

> >> On the other hand, as was already mentioned, the expertise is certainly

> >> available

> >> here to guide you in doing it yourself, but be prepared for a lot of

> >> patience and

> >> care...!

> >>

> >>

> >>

> >>

> >> On 24 Jun 2008, at 2:07 nm., Andrew Sporner wrote:

> >>

> >> > I see you took magic in the spirit intended ;-)

> >> >

> >> > I had a price here of EUR 1500 to do this and was advised not

> >> > to do it on account of the value of the car itself.

> >> >

> >> > I am rather torn on this---but if I figure I do anything to the motor

> >> > it is something

> >> > that can be salvaged into another car later if the body is too far

> gone.

> >> >

> >> > Ideas?

> >> >

> >> >

> >> > Andy

> >> >

> >> > On 6/24/08, Pete Williams <hwilliamsjr2 at cox.net> wrote:

> >> >

> >> > > Andy,

> >> > > Cam timing marks are already there. There is a lot more "magic"

> >> involved. At

> >> > > least two special tools, spring compressor and offset hex head

> wrench.

> >> Don't

> >> > > try to just get by. There is the danger of the threads coming out

> with

> >> the

> >> > > bolts. Half of the bolts go into the head, half are head bolts

> entering

> >> the

> >> > > block at approximately 1-1/2 degrees off perpendicular. Get all new

> >> rockers.

> >> > > You'll need at least an oiler kit, very inexpensive. It'll be a good

> >> time

> >> > > for a timing chain and tensioner if they haven't been replaced in

> recent

> >> > > memory. If you do end up with tread problems, then you'll have to be

> a

> >> > > magician to master all of the "magic" involved. Make sure no

> washers,

> >> bolts,

> >> > > master links, or loose timing chain ends fall into the engine where

> the

> >> > > timing chains enter. Remove the plugs for easy engine rotation. In

> case

> >> the

> >> > > chain jumps on the other head, it's best to remove all of the

> rockers.

> >> If

> >> > > you do decide to do it yourself, there are a lot more "tricks"

> involved

> >> but

> >> > > there are a lot of magicians on this forum to help you. It's all

> >> possible

> >> > > and can be very rewarding, but there can be a lot of frustration

> too.

> >> > > Good luck,

> >> > > Pete Williams

> >> > > 1972 350SL 4.5

> >> > > 1983 500 SEC AMG

> >> > > 1984 500 SEL (parts)

> >> > > MBCA, Central Oklahoma Section

> >> > >

> >> > > -----Original Message-----

> >> > > From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com

> >> [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com]

> >> > > On Behalf Of Andrew Sporner

> >> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 2:54 AM

> >> > > To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists

> >> > > Subject: [W126 Coupe] Camshaft replacement

> >> > >

> >> > > I am told that the right camshaft needs to be eventually replaced

> >> > > (makes a clacking sound when the motor is cold and their are grooves

> >> > > on one of the cams)  They tell me that the car can go up to 50K

> >> Kilometers

> >> > > more without problems -- or die next week.

> >> > >

> >> > > Can anybody suggest the level of difficulty.  I am not foreign to

> >> working

> >> > > on cars (rebuilt the motor on my 1976 Ford mustang -- though

> admittedly

> >> > > I sent the top-head away to get remachined).

> >> > >

> >> > > I suppose you just have to mark the gears on the timing chain and

> just

> >> > > replace?  Or is there more magic involved?

> >> > >

> >> > > Andy

> >> > > The MB Coupes Website!

> >> > > W126 SEC Mailing List

> >> > > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

> >> > >

> >> > >

> >> > > The MB Coupes Website!

> >> > > W126 SEC Mailing List

> >> > > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

> >> > >

> >> > >

> >> > The MB Coupes Website!

> >> > W126 SEC Mailing List

> >> > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

> >> >

> >>

> >>

> >> The MB Coupes Website!

> >> W126 SEC Mailing List

> >> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

> >>

> > The MB Coupes Website!

> > W126 SEC Mailing List

> > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

>

> The MB Coupes Website!

> W126 SEC Mailing List

> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

>

>

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