[LargeFormat] Pyro

[Kenneth Grunzweig]

I've been using liquid Pyro from Photographers Formulary, which gets you
away from the dangers of working with and mixing the chemistry in highly
concentrated dry form.  Use distilled water to mix chemistry that you will
be using with Pyro developers. I've noticed that agitation makes a big
difference in staining. So, continuously agitate while film is in the
developer.  If you are using a Jobo, I understand, that you need to purchase
Roller Pyro for it to work as well as regular Pyro in trays.  I have always
redeveloped Pyro after the fix for 2 minutes.  Not all films stain the same
way.  I have used Tri-X mostly at an EI of 250.  Gordon Hutching's
recommends Ilford films and recently said that the new Delta 400 is terrific
for Pyro.  The big difference in Pyro is the range of tones, or zones that
you can achieve.  You will have no problem in highlights up to Zone 9.  The
old rule still applies, expose for the shadows; however, Pyro will take care
of the highlights without needing to reduce the development times or
modifying the exposure.

Kenneth Grunzweig